En français et en couleur
ACC - Setup Guide
-
-
Bien fichu !
Par contre j'ai jamais compris pourquoi la barre AR avant avait plus d'effet en entrée de virage, et la barre AR arrière en sortie...
-
Bien fichu !
Par contre j'ai jamais compris pourquoi la barre AR avant avait plus d'effet en entrée de virage, et la barre AR arrière en sortie...
pcq en théorie tu as besoin de gérer au mieux le grip et le placement sur l’avant en entrée, en sortie c’est plus l’arrière. Puisqu’en sortie quand tu accélères tu délestes l’avant et charge l’arrière...enfin je pense
-
Petit topo vu sur le forum officiel, à propos du graining et du tearing
CitationAfficher plusUnder the 'Graining' tab in ACC go 2 different and distinct types of tyre damage but essentially produce similar effect - Graining.
1) Normal graining caused by (correctly pointed out by most people already) low temperatures for extended periods of time. In current ACC model it happens only when temps are low and you see at least the outer part of the tyre on the HUD or only the 'skin' getting cold. You may still have core temps in the 50s or 60s celcius but the outer, bluer skin of the tyre is where the graining happens. There's usually nothing the driver can do since it is an external factor. It can happen in light drizzle rain conditions too, where it is not wet enough to put wets. You lose pressure usually too and it makes the skidding and sliding a feedback loop. Just don't slide the car too much and drive through it.
2) Tyre tearing - It also goes under graining because, again, essentially it is graining but it's cause by excessive slip angles for extended periods of time and here is the key word. Extended.
Due to the nature of the graining, if the tyre is given enough time and returned in the normal operation window quick enough, the graining will go away eventually as you use up the tyre. If, however, you keep pushing the tyre (usually the front tyres are affected a lot more than rears because they use more angle to steer the car), you may start to get a little understeer because the quali grip of the first 10 minutes of the tyre life is gone, so what drivers typically do is they start steer more and more and more and more, every lap, until the understeer gets so bad the car becomes undriveable and you have to pit again. Doesn't happen so much in up to 30m races but very noticeable over full stint. Instead, what you need to do is play with the pedals instead of the steering lock. Maybe you need a slight lift in some corners because you carry more fuel and your car is 1-2 seconds off the pace. You can't just 'drive through' the understeer and expect a different result. It's more of a technique problem rather than a physics problem. It does happen on the Pirellis in F1 too that's why you see some drivers doing almost double the stints with the same tyres sometimes.
Driving style plays a big role because the driver cannot physically extend the grip of the car. Their only job is to best balance the available grip for the appropriate amount of race time. This is incredibly important when you start doing longer endurance races with limited tyre sets where you need to double stint a set. In fact, you can pretty much do similar lap times after 120 minutes as long as you keep the tyre healthy and with balance wear front/rear.
Hope it helps clear some of the thick fog around ACC graining. -
Salut,
j'ai récupéré un fichier tuto pour Motec / ACC que je trouve très bien. Voici le lien de partage
